BLOG

Most of you have probably heard of the 4 Cs of diamond grading. Some of you can recite them like a mantra: Carat, Cut, Color, Clarity. However, do you really understand them and what they mean to the price of your diamond? Let’s find out!

Carat: Carat refers to the weight of the stone. The metric carat, 0.20 gram, is the standard unit of weight for the diamond and most other gems. All other factors being equal, carat has the most impact on the value of the stone. The price of a diamond is called the price per carat. The price per carat increases at certain weight points. For instance, 0.38-0.49, 0.50-0.69, 0.70-0.89, 0.90-0.99, 1.00-1.49, 1.50-1.99 will increase in the price per carat depending on the market. So, you could get a higher quality 0.99 carat diamond for the same price as a mid to low quality one carat stone. The increase in price is not linear, nor is it the same across the board. Price per carat can even vary based on the location of the mine.

Cut: Some people confuse the shape of the diamond with the cut. However, these terms are not interchangeable. The cut actually denotes the proportions and finish that determine the diamond’s brilliance, or sparkle. If a stone is cut too shallow or too deep, light will escape from the stone’s base. An ideal cut allows the light entering the stone to exit through the top, or table of the diamond. The more brilliant a diamond, the larger it will appear.

Color: White diamonds are graded from D to Z, colorless to visibly tinted yellow. When they surpass the Z grade, they become Fancy Colored Diamonds, which have their own grading scale. The following scale depicts the typical variations in color from one level to the next:

• D-E-F
• •Colorless
• G-H-I-J
• •Nearly colorless
• K-L-M
• •Faintly tinted, usually yellow
• N-O-P-Q-R
• •Lightly tinted, usually yellow, tint can be seen with the naked eye
• S-T-U-V-W-X-Y-Z
• •Tinted, usually yellow, may progress to brownish, tint visible to the naked eye, even when mounted

The closer to D, the more expensive the diamond. As with price per carat, the increase is not linear.

Clarity: Almost all diamonds have imperfections in the stone: cuts, breaks, deformations. These imperfections are known as inclusions. Though the inclusions may not be visible to the naked eye, they do affect the clarity of the stone. The Gemological Institute of America rates the clarity of diamonds with the following scale:

• FL-Flawless

These stones have no imperfections inside or on the outside of the stone under the magnification of a loupe of 10 power.

• IF-Internally Flawless

These stones have no inclusions under a loupe with a 10 power magnification.

• VVS1,VVS2-Very Very Slightly Imperfect

These stones have very small inclusions which are very  difficult to see under a loupe with a 10 power magnification.

• VS1,VS2-Very Slightly Imperfect

These stones have small inclusions which are slightly difficult to difficult to see under a loupe with a 10 power magnification.

• SI1,SI2-Slightly Imperfect

These stones have inclusions which are fairly easy to see under a loupe with a 10 power magnification, or visible to the naked eye.

• I1,I2,I3-Imperfect

These stones have inclusions which range from eye visible to very easily seen to the naked eye.

As you might expect, the more flawless the diamond, the more expensive. As you also might expect by now, the price going up the scale is not linear.

Now that you know the 4 Cs, the last one you’ll need to consider is cost. If you have a budget in mind, decide which of the 4 Cs you’re willing to sacrifice. Do you want a larger stone with more imperfections? Or are you satisfied with a small diamond as long as it’s flawless? As with shape, style, and setting, those decisions should be discussed with your jeweler.

If you were born in July, your flower is larkspur, your sign is Cancer or Leo, and your birthstone is Ruby, the Stone of Contentment. According to some, the ruby symbolizes success, devotion, and integrity. Others think the ruby is the perfect symbol of love and passion. All can agree the ruby has a long history of evoking varied responses from all who wonder at its magnificence.

Since its discovery over 2,500 years ago, the ruby has been prized by both royalty and warriors. The earliest stones were found in Sri Lanka and Burma where the ancient Hindus called the ruby “Rajnapura,” meaning “King of Gems.” They believed that when the stone was placed under the skin, it would make a warrior invincible. Royalty used the ruby as a talisman, believing the stone would grow darker indicating impending doom. Legend states the first wife of Henry VIII foretold her imminent demise from the darkening of her ruby.

While there is a lack of empirical evidence that the darkening of the ruby is a signal of danger, color is a significant characteristic of the ruby when determining its relative worth. Ranging in hue from light to deep with orange to purple undertones, to be classified a ruby, the stone must be red corundum. Corundum is second only to diamonds in hardness, and is a sapphire in any color other than red (ruby) or green (emerald). Mostly found in the Mogok region of northern Burma, now Myanmar, the true red of “pigeon blood” rubies is considered the most beautiful and valuable.

Ironically, the term “Burmese ruby” has been used to describe stones which are perfect red but are not from Burma. These rubies can be found in India, Sri Lanka, Australia, Kenya, Tanzania, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and the United States. Some regions  produce characteristic color traits. African rubies typically are darker red with brownish undertones. Sri Lankan rubies tend to have a lavender undertone that appears fuchsia red.

As with diamonds, clarity, cut and carat are important considerations when choosing a ruby. The fewer flaws, the higher the value of the ruby. The quality of the cut can also enhance the color and luminosity of the ruby. Natural rubies are usually smaller in size. Since higher carat stones are rare, the price per carat is not linear. For example, the price per carat of a five carat gem will be exponentially higher than that of a two carat stone of equal quality.

When purchasing a ruby, make sure to buy from a reputable dealer who can tell you the stone’s origin, authenticity, and whether it has been treated with any coating to enhance its appearance. Like other gems, rubies can be made in a laboratory. While a synthetic ruby may be a good option, your dealer should always disclose that it is not a natural stone.

Among the properties natural rubies are rumored to have, ancient lore says a ruby worn on the left hand will bring the wearer luck. If you’re not fortunate enough to have the ruby as your birthstone, consider the firey, red gem as an engagement or pinky ring to bring a little more luck and magic into your life.

Do you prefer white or yellow gold in your jewelry? Both are great as far as durability is concerned, and the difference in price is almost negligible. There are, however, some subtle differences between the two, and that’s just not about the color. Here is how the two types of gold differ from one another:

1. Both white and yellow gold are genuine gold, and the karat rating in measured in the same way. 18-karat gold will contain 75% pure gold, be it white or yellow. The only difference lies in the metals alloyed with gold to make the jewelry. Yellow gold is alloyed with copper, zinc, etc., to retain the yellow glow. White gold, on the other hand, is alloyed using nickel, palladium, etc., and plated with a thin layer of rhodium on top to give it the brilliant silver white radiance. Keep in mind that if you are allergic to nickel, you will need to make sure that your white gold jewelry contains palladium as the alloying metal. This will make the jewelry slightly more expensive, but in the long run, the value for money it provides will be exceptional indeed.
   

2. White gold jewelry requires slightly more maintenance than yellow gold variants. This is because the rhodium layer will show signs of wear and tear, exposing the metal underneath as time progresses. Rhodium is quite a hard, non-reactive metal, but everyday use will eventually take its toll on the layer anyway. Don’t worry when this happens. Simply get your ring re-plated from the jewelry store where you bought the jewelry from. The process is inexpensive, quick, and before you know it, your jewelry will look good as new once again.

3. Consider the color of gemstones when buying gem studded jewelry to determine which type of gold to get. If you are purchasing diamond solitaire rings or diamond studded jewelry, then by all means, opt for white gold. Nothing else will bring out the luster of your diamonds more effectively. But if you are opting for colored gemstones in bright hues, yellow gold would be more appropriate, as the yellow glow will add to the luster of the gems.

Both yellow and white gold are excellent for jewelry. In the end, the part about making a choice boils down to your personal preference, and the color of gemstones set in the jewelry. Both types of gold can add definition equally to your outfits, and both will look great on you, under all circumstances.

Recently, there has been much hype in the markets and on the news about the rise in gold prices. All the while, its more illustrious metal cousin, platinum, has been quietly sitting atop her throne in the world of precious metals. Platinum’s rarity above ground has led to an aura of distinction and mystery surrounding the metal. However, its strength, purity and beauty have made it one of the most sought after metals for fine jewelry.

Though platinum has become synonymous with affluence, at one time it was considered a nuisance metal. In the 17th century, Spanish Conquistadors in South America were annoyed that the metal got in the way of their gold mining operations. Not knowing what to do with it, they used it to make pots and pans.

Two centuries later, platinum was discovered in the Ural Mountains. The Russians put the metal to better use, minting the platinum rouble. Over the next 18 years, the Russians minted nearly half a million ounces into platinum roubles, securing its status as a precious metal. Russia remains, along with South Africa, one of the major sources of platinum ore.

The durability of the metal combined with its white luster made it popular in jewelry making. However, during World War II, the United States government halted its use in all non-military applications. Demand for a substitute resulted in the use of white gold for jewelry making during that period.

Today, platinum is used in a number of applications other than jewelry making. More than 50 percent of the current production is used in the automobile industry as an autocatalyst to control carbon emissions. It is also used in chemical, electrical and glass manufacturing industries.

It remains a favorite of jewelers and consumers for reasons other than its beautiful white luster. When used in jewelry making, platinum retains at least 90 percent purity. Gold and silver are mixed with various alloys and range from 75 to 58 percent purity or less. Since platinum is one of the heaviest metals, it preserves its strength naturally and exhibits little material loss. It is regarded as the perfect metal for setting precious stones because the prongs tend not to show signs of wear over time. It resists tarnishing and is classified as hypoallergenic because of its purity.

Though it is difficult to mine and will remain a rare commodity, platinum is one of the most popular settings for diamonds and engagement rings today. Its beauty and durability ensure it will continue to be the metal of choice for jewelry meant to last a lifetime.

Jewelry is one of the easiest investments to be lost, stolen, or damaged. While some homeowners or renters policies provide some coverage for jewelry theft, it is by no means comprehensive. A good rule of thumb for insuring pieces of jewelry is if the replacement cost is more than $500, cover it in a separate policy.

In order to calculate your premium, most insurers will ask for appraisal values. Before calling your agent, gather each piece you want insured, take pictures of each one, attach a detailed written description, and have the pieces appraised. Provide copies of all the pertinent information, including receipts from the time of purchase, to your insurance agent. If you are shopping agencies, knowing the appraisal value of all the pieces will save time and confusion during the process.

Depending on your insurer and location, you may be able to get the best deal through the company already handling your homeowner’s insurance. Speak to your agent about whether it is better for you to treat the jewelry coverage as a rider on your current policy or as a separate entity. Laws vary by state, but there is always a minimum annual premium applicable for jewelry coverage. Make sure to ask if there is a deductible and how it affects your premium.

In addition, you will want to ask about any special circumstances or exemptions. For instance, are the items insured while traveling abroad? What if only one piece of a set is lost? Will I be given the amount of the full replacement value, or a cash settlement? Does the policy cover repairs to damaged jewelry? What are the exclusions? Make sure to know exactly how claims are settled, as they vary from state to state and company to company.

Once you have coverage, make sure to keep your policy up to date. If you buy any major pieces, don’t forget to add them to your policy. At least once a year, have your collection reappraised for replacement value at a reputable jeweler. If your collection is not up to date with your insurance agency, you may not receive the settlement you want. While shopping for insurance may be tedious, the peace of mind is well worth the effort.